Ireland has been our bucket list for many years.  We finally were able to travel Ireland on a self-driving tour around the country with a travel mate from England and my husband’s sister.

Tips for Where to Stay and What to see on a Self-Driving Tour of  Ireland

Arrive  into Dublin Airport

Make your way to Dublin City Centre (30 minutes), where we recommend that you  check into the  Fitzwilliam Hotel.

The Fitzwilliam Hotel is ideally situated in Central Dublin, overlooking St Stephen’s Green. The Fitzwilliam is known for its contemporary style and its warm Irish welcome.

The city of Dublin is filled with places to explore. You may wish to give yourself an overview of the city by taking one of the Dublin Bus hop-on-and-off tours that will take you to all the main landmarks. Among the many highlights are the homes where the Duke of Wellington and Oscar Wilde were born, as well as the beautiful Christ Church Cathedral, St. Patrick’s Cathedral, the Molly Malone statue, and Dublin Castle. Things to see and do in Dublin

Useful contacts:
The Fitzwilliam Hotel, St. Stephen’s Green, Dublin 2, Ireland. Tel: 353 1 478 7000 Overnight at the Fitzwilliam Hotel

More about Dublin, Ireland

Next on the Tour: Belfast – Rent a car and head north.

Enroute to Belfast stop at:

Malahide Castle tour, gardens and cafe

Howth the Seafood Capital of Ireland

Belfast

Titanic Museum in Belfast

The Merchant Hotel is a 5-star hotel and is a harmonious blend of Victorian grandeur and Art Deco modernity, situated in the heart of Belfast city center’s historic Cathedral Quarter.

Overnight at the Merchant Hotel

Useful contacts: Merchant Hotel, 16 Skipper St, Belfast, Co. Antrim Tel: 44 28 9023 4888
Hertz City Centre Depot, 151 South Circular Road Dublin 8, Ireland
TEL: 353 (1) 709 3060

Explore Belfast. You may wish to take the Black Taxi Tour (view the political murals of the Falls and the Shankill tell their own graphic story of what has been called “The Troubles” in Ireland’s recent history. See the infamous Peaceline, a wall built to keep Nationalists and Loyalists apart and in the process divided the communities.

Go golfing, drive 40 minutes to Ardglass, Co Down, where you can golf at Ardglass GC .  Ardglass really is a course to savor with some outstanding holes. The 161yd Par 3 2nd, the 480yd Par 5 11th and the 181yd Par 3 12th each require a carry across the coastline and cliffs tops of the Irish Sea and rank among the best holes in Ireland. The view from the elevated 12th tee, with the backdrop of the Irish Sea and the Mourne Mountains, is to die for.

Useful contacts for golfers:
Ardglass Golf Club, Castle Place, Ardglass, Northern Ireland, BT30 7TP. Tel: +44 (0)28 44 841219

Northern Coastline of Ireland

Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge

Next, drive north to visit Giants Causeway and the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge along the Causeway Coastal route.

Overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, the Ramada Hotel Portrush is a 5-minute drive from the famous Royal Portrush Golf Club. The hotel features a traditional restaurant, free Wi-Fi throughout, and a 24-hour front desk. The bright and airy bedrooms each have a cozy seating area and a private modern bathroom with a hairdryer. All rooms have tea/coffee facilities

More about Ireland’s Northern Coastline

Useful contacts:
Ramada Portrush Hotel, 73 Main St, Co. Antrim, Portrush Ireland Tel: 44 (0) 28 7082 6100

Wild Atlantic Way

Continue your tour by driving north-west to The Workhouse, Dunfanaghy then 20 minutes south to Glenveagh Castle and a last 1-hour journey south to Donegal. In Donegal check into the Abbey Hotel.

The Abbey Hotel is one of the longest established hotels in the northwest, renowned for its unique setting in the center of Donegal Town with idyllic views of Donegal Bay in the background. The Abbey Hotel is a premier venue for music events, activity breaks, and best value accommodation rates in Donegal. The Abbey Hotel is located near beautiful coastal drives and signature discovery points of the Wild Atlantic Way.

Useful contacts:
Abbey Hotel, Donegal Town, Co. Donegal, Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 74 97 21014

Tour Donegal Castle, Muckish Mountain, Lough Eske and the Abbey of the Four Masters.

Go golfing at the Donegal Golf Club, Murvagh, Laghey, Co. Donegal, Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 74 97 34054

Donegal Golf Club or Murvagh as it is commonly known, is a magnificent par-73, measuring 6,753 meters true test of golf. It is a testament to the late Eddie Hackett’s ability to design spectacular links courses. After completing Waterville and Connemara he was given an opportunity to flex his muscles on a promontory in Donegal Bay. He recalled with great modesty “The greens are natural sites: only the level of some them were adjusted by hand. All I had to do was develop the course with what nature provided”. One of the feature holes is 174 meters 5th to a plateau green with Donegal Bay in the background and no bale-out front or sides, a truly magnificent hole.

More about Donegal, Ireland

Westport

Westport, Ireland

Continue your journey by driving south taking in the sights of Sligo Town, Ballina and Castlebar ending the day in Westport where we suggest you check into the Wyatt Hotel.

The Wyatt Hotel, one of the finest Mayo hotels, known as a gem in the heart of Westport. Our boutique property prides itself on our scenic location as well as our warm Westport welcome, professional service, top-class accommodation, and fantastic food.

They are located in the center of town at The Octagon monument. The Wyatt Hotel is the perfect base to explore and enjoy the magnificent beauty of the surrounding areas. Westport is nestled between the peaks of Croagh Patrick and the deep blue seas of Clew Bay and has become one of the most popular holiday destinations in Co Mayo. Offering something for everyone from walking, cycling, sightseeing, music, arts, adventure, and leisure activities through shopping, vibrant nightlife, and gourmet food, Westport really has it all. Westport was voted the best place to live in 2012 by the Irish Times.

More  about Westport, Ireland

Useful contacts:
Wyatt Hotel, The Octagon, Westport, Co. Mayo, Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 74 98 25027

Next, continue driving south taking the coastal route, stopping at Kylemore Abbey, the onto Galway

When you arrive in Galway where we recommend that you check into the Hotel Metric.

Galway

Galway waterfront

The 4 star Hotel Meyrick has been Galway’s leading destination for over 160 years. Overlooking Eyre Square, Hotel Meyrick is one of the most elegant 4-star city centre Galway hotels. Hotel Meyrick combines a stunning Victorian hotel with a superbly convenient location. The delights of the city are right on your doorstep; with many shops to explore, theatres to delight, restaurants to sample and nightlife to enjoy, all a short walk

Useful contacts:
Hotel Meyrick, Eyre Square, Galway Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 91 56 4041

In Galway visit Spanish Arch, Galway Cathedral, Lynch’s Castle and St Nicholas’ Church plus the many music and theatre venues of Galway City

Cliffs of Mohr

Next drive south, stopping to explore Poulnabrone Dolmen, Ailwee Caves, Dunguaire Castle, and the Cliffs of Mohr. Reach your final destination for the day at the town of Doolin.

Doolin, Ireland

We recommend Hotel Doolin.  Set in the heart of Doolin, famous for its traditional Irish music, this contemporary hotel has spacious, modern rooms. It features outdoor terraces, a restaurant, and two bars and cafes.

This boutique-style Hotel Doolin features elegant bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, TVs and free Wi-Fi. 24-hour room service is also available. The lively Fitzpatrick bar is famed for its live music. Doolin is set on the edges of the Burren National Park, and the 213 meter-high Cliffs of Moher from the hotel’s backdrop, making it an ideal location for exploring the local landscape.

Useful contacts:

Hotel Doolin, Doolin, Co. Clare Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 65 70 74111

Aran Islands

Take a day trip to the Aran Islands. You can take a ferry to one of the Aran Islands, Inisoirr, Inismeain, Inismor with Doolin 2 Aran Ferries. Upon your return enjoy an evening meal in Fitzpatrick’s Bar.

Ring of Kerry

After breakfast, the next day, drive south to Killarney, with a side trip to visit the Burren, Bunratty Castle, and the Rock of Cashel. On arrival in Killarney, where we suggest you check into the Killarney Park Hotel

The five stars Killarney Park Hotel is wonderfully situated in the picturesque town of Killarney, celebrated throughout the world for its magnificent scenery and welcoming people.

The hotel offers guests the ultimate in luxury rooms overlooking the hotel gardens or the town of Killarney. The award-winning Park Restaurant is one of Kerry’s most notable dining rooms and the hotel’s Spa is Ireland’s only member of ‘The Leading Spas of the World’. Killarney is Ireland’s best-known tourist destination and probably the most written-about and sung-about place in the land. The town is colorful with craft shops, galleries, museums, cafes, and restaurants. It also has a highly developed range of guided tours – including the traditional horse-drawn jaunting cars

Killarney Park Hotel, Town Centre, Killarney, Co Kerry, Ireland. Tel: +353 (0)64 35555

Next, drive 1 hour west to the village of Dingle and tour the Dingle Penninsula.  Return to the  Killarney Park Hotel that night.

Then tour the Ring of Kerry. The Kerry Way Road takes you through Kenmare, Cathersiveen, Rossbeig, Ross Castle, Waterville, Derrynane and Molls Gap. This is an all-day trip
Return to the Killarney Park Hotel

Waterford, Ireland

Old Bridge Waterford

The next day, drive east stopping for lunch in Cork and then on to Ardmore before staying the night in Waterford,

We recommend that you check into the Waterford Castle Hotel. Situated on its own private Island on the River Suir, Waterford Castle Hotel & Golf  Resort offers Luxury Castle Accommodation nestled in the suburbs of Waterford City.

Feel yourself travel through time as you make the magical journey by our Car Ferry (2 minutes) to the 310 acre Island Resort. With an amazing history stretching back to the 6th century, wake up in Waterford Castle Hotel after a peaceful night’s sleep to the picturesque and enchanting scenes and sounds the island has to offer. Enjoy gourmet food served in our award-winning Munster room restaurant and Fitzgerald Bar or simply relax by the large open fire in 16th Century surroundings.

Useful contacts: 
Waterford Castle Hotel, The Island, Ballinakill, Waterford, Co. Waterford, Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 51 878 203

Go golfing at the Waterford Castle Golf Club for the ultimate golfing experience that will stay with you for a lifetime. Waterford Castle truly is an island dream! The unique Golf Club is Ireland’s only true island golf resort. Designed by Des Smyth, former Ryder Cup player, and opened in 1992, this 18-hole, par 72 championship golf course, complete with a luxurious clubhouse, leads you through mature woodland and parkland. The course itself runs to 6,814 yards, off the medal tees, and covers an area of over 200 acres

Visit the House of Waterford Crystal, The Mall, Waterford City, Ireland Tel: 353 (0)51 317000

Time to head home, drive north to Dublin, where you can check into the Hilton Dublin Airport Hotel. Drop-off  your rental the vehicle

Hilton Dublin Airport Hotel, Northern Cross, Malahide Rd, Dublin 17, Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 1 866 1800

Our self drive Ireland Itinerary made it a perfect Trip!

Tips for travel and tours in Ireland:

Weather

Average temperatures in May/June are in the high 50’s/low 60s (13-17 C), however, the weather can be unpredictable. Accordingly, we strongly suggest you prepare for all conditions by bringing the following:

•   Trousers and sweaters
•   Waterproof rain suit
•   Hat
•   Rain Gloves
•   Turtleneck(s)
•   Long underwear
•   Golf shoes
• For more information on the weather in Ireland, please visit: https://www.ireland.com/weather

Banking

The currency in Northern Ireland is British Pounds while the Republic of Ireland uses the Euro. ATM machines at most Irish banks will allow you to withdraw cash directly from your North American checking or savings account, through various networking arrangements (Cirrus, Plus, Maestro). Visa and MasterCard are accepted at most restaurants, pubs and retails locations

Restaurants and Pubs

In most pubs, you will be asked to order food and pay at the bar prior to your meal. It is rare to have servers come to your table unless you are eating at a restaurant. Tipping is not required when ordering drinks at a pub however a 10% tip is expected (after the meal only) if food is served. Servers will come to your table at a restaurant and a 10%-15% tip is also expected.

Next on our driving tour of Ireland was the Wild Atlantic Way including the Dunfanaghy and Donegal Areas.

Horn Head Bay – Wild Atlantic Way Ireland – photo by Ricardo Cabral

We learned a lot about Ireland’s Great Potato Famine of 1845-50 while visiting Dunfanaghy and Donegal on Ireland’s Wild Atlantic Way. But you can see evidence of its devastation at many if not most Irish Cemeteries and towns. In Dunfanaghy you can find a large, rounded-hill of earth surrounded by an iron railing marking it as a famine grave.

Ireland lost about 25% of its population, about 1.5 million people, during the Great Potato Famine. Although rarely mentioned in tourist books if you look there are remnants of the famine, everywhere.

The Old workhouse is within walking distance of Sheep Haven Bay and Tramore Beach near the market centre in Dunfanaghy.  Admission is free with some paid exhibits.  The Workhouse is now a heritage centre where they tell the story of Wee Hanna a victim of the famine and former resident of the workhouse.

Workhouses were set up to house the poor by the government beginning in 1847.  Once people were desperate enough to enter a workhouse they surrender their freedom, had to wear uniforms and live under strict rules.  For food, they received “stirabout”, which is a weak oatmeal porridge. 

Donegal Golf Club or Murvagh as it is commonly known, is a magnificent par-73, measuring 6,753 meters true test of golf. It is a testament to the late Eddie Hackett’s ability to design spectacular links courses. After completing Waterville and Connemara he was given an opportunity to flex his muscles on a promontory in Donegal Bay.

He recalled with great modesty “The greens are natural sites: only the level of some them were adjusted by hand. All I had to do was develop the course with what nature provided”. One of the feature holes is 174 meters 5th to a plateau green with Donegal Bay in the background and no bale-out front or sides, a truly magnificent hole.

Bushmills Irish Whiskey Distillery Tour and Tasting

 

On day 11 our driving tour of Ireland we went to Bushmills, Ireland. We toured the distillery and sampled some good Irish whiskey. Or as my husband says, “Enjoyed the best Irish whiskey”. Touring the Bushmills Distillery was listed high on my husband’s and his friend’s bucket list. They are both connoisseurs of single malt whiskeys and the Bushmills Irish Whiskey is their favorite because it is triple distilled and is smooth and mellow.

Bushmills, Ireland

City Center Bushmill, Ireland

The city of Bushmills is located about 3 miles from the Giant Causeway. It is a quaint town of about 1.300 people. You can roam the streets and find interesting shops. My favorite stop was at the Copper Kettle, a coffee shop and tearoom, located at 61 Main St., they have a nice variety of A range of cooked foods, sandwiches, desserts, and pastries for sit-in or take away.

Bushmills Distillery

Bushmills Distillery

Home to world-famous Bushmills Whiskey. Bushmills is the oldest licensed distillery in the world, founded in 1608.  Generations have passed down the ancient distilling tradition.  

They produce 6 types of whiskeys:

The Original Bushmills whiskey is made with a recipe that dates back to 1888 it combines single malt whiskey with a lighter grant whiskey. This is my husband’s favorite, “best Irish whiskey”.

Bushmills Black Bush combines malt whiskey with lighter grain whiskey and is aged in Oloroso Sherry and Bourbon Casks. Bushmills Black Bush is rich with fruity highlights and is a very smooth whiskey.

Bushmills Red Bush is aged in new bourbon barrels, it is incredibly smooth due to being triple distilled.

Bushmills offers three more single malt Irish whiskeys, those distilled10 years, 16 years, or 21 years. The 10-year single malt Irish whiskey is distilled in sherry casts and bourbon-seasoned casks which gives it honey, vanilla, and milk chocolate aroma.

The 16-year single malt whiskey is aged for 15 years in Oloroso Sherry and bourbon seasoned casts and then another 9 months in port wine pipes, which are unique barrels used to make port wine.

The 21-year single malt Irish whiskey is aged for at least 19 years in Oloroso Sherry and bourbon seasoned casts and then another 2 years in Madeira casts until mature.

Tour highlights included seeing many types of whiskey casts and learning about the ancient process which has been passed down for generations for making some of the world’s best Irish whiskey.

The name Bushmills comes from the Bush River which supplies the water for whiskey and the mill for barley. Tours including a tasting room are available year-round, be sure and visit their website for tour hours, Bushmills Distillery.

Bushmill Whiskey in casts

Tasting Room Bushmill Distillery Tour, David (seated) and Graham.

Dunluce Castle is just outside Bushmills on the coast. It is the ruins of a medieval castle.

The castle is surrounded by extremely steep drops on either side, Making it a very defensible location. it was used by early Christians and Vikings.   Even before that time, this location was the site of an early Irish fort.

Dunluce Castle In-land Side of Castle

Dunluce Castle as seen from the Irish Sea

Westport, Ireland is our next stop on our drive tour of Ireland. We drove south form Donegal taking in the sights of Sligo Town, Ballina and Castlebar and ended the day in Westport.  We stayed at the Wyatt Hotel, one of the finest Mayo hotels, known as a gem in the heart of Westport. (Wyatt Hotel, The Octagon, Westport, Co. Mayo, Ireland Tel: 353 (0) 74 98 25027)

This boutique hotel prides itself on its scenic location as well as a warm Westport welcome, professional service, top-class accommodation, and fantastic food.  All of which we found to be true, especially the Hotel restaurant and pub which was vibrant and had delicious food. It is located in the centre of town at The Octagon monument. 

The Wyatt Hotel was the perfect base to explore and enjoy the magnificent beauty of the surrounding areas, the peaks of Croagh Patrick and the deep blue seas of Clew Bay.

The area offers something for everyone from walking, cycling, sightseeing, music, arts, adventure, and leisure activities through shopping, vibrant nightlife and gourmet food. 

Walking Tour

We did a walking tour of Westport ( Not booking again until summer 2020) and discovered many town secrets and learned much about the Great Famine effects on this part of Ireland.  The tour concluded with a free drink or tea at Maddens Pub at the Clew Bay Hotel. Our tour guide was superb and the tour price was very moderate.

If you walk on your own head down James St towards the Clew Bay Hotel ( en route Blousers Pub which is the site of the  famous Guinness TV ad, look for the  plug on the wall;  Westport Towne Threatre and Craft House Shop)   

Turn right on the South Mall Street and walk along the Moy River then turn right up Bridge Street  (en route Matt Malloy’s , Janey Mac’s ,Castle Bar and the Woolen Market) or the next street which is Mill Street (  see the Mill Street Mural) then right again on Shop Street ( en route Mcloughkin’s Bookshop and grocery stores) and you will be back at the Wyatt Hotel.

 

Music

Westport is home to the Westport Folk and Bluegrass Festival each summer. For over eleven years, the Festival has featured acts from America, the UK, continental Europe, and of course Ireland – north and south.

 

Westport House

Westport House

 

It is a grand country estate set in large gardens, a cafe, and the lakes make a grand setting for the house itself. Please note there is an entrance fee to get up to the house though you can see some of the gardens and lakes for free.

Westport House also has a Private Adventure Land for kids and families.

Croagh Patrick

Croagh Patrick Photo by Stefan Jürgensen

If you are up for a hike head out to The Croagh Patrick Visitor Centre, it is 8 km west of the town of Westport. Bus Eireann and taxis are available from Westport to the Visitor Centre.  Croagh Patrick’s history as a place of worship reaches back in time as far as 3,000 BC.

It takes about two hours for the average person to climb to the summit, and one and a half hours to descend.  You will need sturdy footwear, rain gear and some drinking water. Climbing sticks are for rent/sale at the Centre. 


Onto Galway, Ireland

The Antrim Coastline of Northern Ireland,  an Ireland Self-driving Tour – Day 9- 10

– Ireland’s Northern Causeway –

Upon leaving Belfast we headed along the Causeway Coastal Route for breath-taking views of the Antrim coastline along the North Channel of the Irish Sea.

We stopped in along the coast by the Antrim Mountains to partake of the beautiful scenery and to take advantage of the perfect photo-taking opportunity, mountains on one side Antrim coastline on the other. The sun was shining, it glistened off the water, making it the most striking emerald and aqua blue I have ever seen.

Antrim Coast Northern Ireland Farmland

 

Glenarm Castle

 

Glenarm Castle Walled Garden

We stopped mid-morning along the Antrim coastline for tea and scones at Glenarm Castle Walled Garden Tea Room. Best scones ever! We also walked through the walled garden and admired the many plants and flowers. The charming tearoom is located in the old Mushroom House and is open daily. You can relax and enjoy a light lunch or a delicious homemade cake or pastry, overlooking the kitchen garden. Parking is available.

Glenarm Castle Walled Garden Tea Room Outdoor Seating

 

Carrick-Rede and Larrybane

Back to the Causeway Coastal Route, and the Antrim coastline, the next adventure was at Carrick-a-Rede, a rope bridge, and Larrybane. Both are managed by the National Trust of Northern Ireland. Carrick-a-Rede is Scottish Gaelic and means the rock in the road. The road is the sea route for Atlantic salmon as they pass westward of Carrick Island. Often a scene in the Game of Thrones, Carrick-a-Rede, rope bridge, has new meaning to the series fans.

 

Carrick-Rede

For 300 hundred years fishermen have strung a rope bridge about 30 meters above the sea to allow them to pass between the mainland to Carrick Island. Now thousands of visitors each year, if they have the courage, cross the rope bridge and gaze down between the wood slats at on the rushing seawater. And then are rewarded after a successful crossing with the spectacular views from Carrick Island of the Irish Sea.

Only three of the four in our group were even willing to try to cross on the rope bridge. One of us didn’t make it and had to be helped back to the stairway by the National Trust officer posted to assist tourists who lose their courage partway across. I made it across and thoroughly enjoyed the adventure, this is what bucket lists are made for!

Portrush, Northern Ireland

We checked into the Ramada Hotel in Portrush that evening just in time for dinner. We ate at the Harbour Restaurant, 5-6 Harbour Road. It’s a pub with a large sit-down dining bistro in the back. Great food and cherry staff.

The Ramada Inn in Portrush overlooks the Atlantic Ocean, it is a 5-minute drive from the famous Royal Portrush Golf Club. The hotel features a traditional restaurant, free Wi-Fi throughout, and a 24-hour front desk. The bright and airy bedrooms each have a cozy seating area and a private modern bathroom with a hairdryer. All rooms have tea/coffee facilities.

Royal Portrush Golf Club Photo by Alan Leonard

The Royal Portrush Golf Club was the host of the 2019 British Open Championship. The Royal Portrush is rated as the seventh-best golf course in the world in Golf Digest’s “World 100 Greatest Golf Courses”. Royal Portrush is a “must-play” for golfers wanting to experience one of the toughest golf challenges there is.

Discover Belfast’s city center, tour the historic neighborhoods of the Troubles, and come on board the Belfast Titanic Museum.

Merchant Hotel

Belfast Past and Present

King William of Orange

Protestant Section

Catholic Section

Mural Catholic Neighborhood Northen Ireland

Peace Wall

City Hall

Belfast Ireland City Hall

 Belfast Restaurants

Titanic Museum

Titanic Museum Belfast, Ireland

Ireland has been on our bucket list for quite a while.  My husband is of Irish descent and I have always wanted to experience the Irish countryside.  We chose to do a self-drive tour of Ireland traveling with a friend and my husband’s sister.

We flew into Dublin, Ireland to begin our adventure.

Dublin has old-world charm with a modern vibe.

The city truly is the heart of the Republic of Ireland. We started our visit in Dublin with a stay at the Fitzwilliam Hotel ideally located at Saint Stephen’s Green, a beautiful city park, in the heart of the city.  The Fitzwilliam is located in Dublin City Centre, it has a modern flair and features the Citron Restaurant and a Bar – Coffee Shop.

The Fitzwilliam is a five-star hotel and offers all the amenities including an Irish breakfast. An Irish Breakfast includes eggs, sausage, bacon, mushroom, tomatoes, and black and white pudding and toast it is delicious and very filling.

You can also order other hot menu items, pancakes, French toast, eggs benedict, etc. off the menu or choose the breakfast bar which includes yogurt, fruit, cereal, bread, sweets rolls, and juice.

St. Stephen’s Green right across the street has a pond and walking trails and park benches to sit and enjoy the lush greenery and people watch right in Dublin City Centre.

Things to do in Dublin –  Attractions and Sites

Day One

Kilmainham Gaol 
Head to Kilmainham Gaol first, early in the day, due to the limited number of tickets sold per day and the potential for long lines. The tour of the Gaol (jail) is very interesting and tells you a lot about the Irish Famine and most of all about the Irish fight to be independent from England.

Visit the interactive center to hear about prisoner experience at Kilmainham Gaol and go on a guided tour to see the cells and work yard and learn more about the Gaol.  Kilmainham Gaol is the perfect way to learn about Ireland’s fight for independence.

 The tour begins in the assembly room that was also used as a chapel. The guide tells a story about the 1916 rebel Joseph Plunkett who was condemned to death and was married to Grace at the prison right before his execution.

You might hear the song about Grace (see lyrics below) played at local pubs featuring traditional Irish music throughout Ireland.

Lyrics to Grace
As we gather in the chapel here, in old Kilmainham [D]jail,
I think about the last few weeks, Oh will they say we [Am]failed,
From our school days, they have told us we must yearn for liber[ty,
Yet all I want in this dark place is to have you here with me.

[Chorus]
Oh Grace just hold me in your arms, and let this moment linger,
They take me out at dawn and I will die,
With all my love I place this wedding ring upon your finger,
There won’t be time to share our love so we must say goodbye.

Now I know it’s hard for you my love to ever understand,
The love I bear for these brave men my love for this brave land,
But when Padraic called me to his side down I the G.P.O.
I had to leave my own sick bed, to him I had to go.

[Repeat Chorus]

Now as the dawn is breaking, my heart is breaking too
On this May morn,’ as I walk out, my thoughts will be of you
And I’ll write some words upon the wall so everyone will know
I loved so much that I could see His Blood Upon The Rose.

As we gather in the chapel here, in old Kilmainham jail,
I think about the last few weeks, Oh will they say we failed,
From our school days, they have told us we must yearn for liberty,
Yet all I want in this dark place is to[A] have you here with[D] me.

Oh Grace just hold me in your arms, and let this moment linger,
They[G] take me out at[D] dawn and I will die,
With all my love I place this wedding[G] ring upon your [D]finger,
There won’t be time to[D] share our love so we must say goodbye.

 

 

Dublin Castle

 

There were an amazing number of free things to do in Dublin.  The Dublin Castle walking tour is one of these.  Free walking tours are available at 11:00 am and 1:00 pm. The Castle, located in Dublin City Centre, is mainly the State Apartments since most of the original castle burnt down in 1884. The Chapel Tower is the only remaining section of the original castle.

The complex is made up of beautiful Georgian buildings. You can tour the throne room, portrait gallery, Wedgewood room, and the St. Patrick’s Grand Hall. The guided tour of the castle provides information on Ireland’s history and struggles with the Vikings, Normans, and English.

Dublin Castle is built on a site where there has been a settlement for more than 1,000 years, well before the time of the Vikings. The castle was the most important fortification in Ireland for over 8 centuries. The castle functioned as the site of the colonial rule, until it was handed over to Michael Collins the first president of the Independent Irish Free State.

The castle originally had 4 towers and was surrounded by the Puddle River that is now underground. Meiler Fitzhenry first founded the Dublin Castle as a major defensive work on the orders of King John of England in 1204. This was sometime after the Norman invasion of Ireland in 1169. Until 1922 it was the seat of British rule on Ireland, now is used for ceremonial purposes.

Be sure to look for the Lady Justice Statue over the Gate. The Irish’s favorite saying about it when the British ruled Ireland was, The Statue of Justice, mark well her station, her face to the castle and her arse to the nation!

The rooms of the Dublin castle are now used for official functions and many are open to the public. My favorite was St. Patrick’s Hall which is a grand hall has a beautiful ceiling mural done by Vincenzo Waldre. Painted in the 1790’s it features banners of the Knights of St. Patrick.

Other rooms display wonderful art on the walls and period furniture along with long elegant corridors. Be sure to see the Battleaxe Landing with a 19th century cantilevered staircase. There you can see, above the large double doorway,  the official symbol of Ireland ,the Gold Harp, set against a blue background.

 

Take a break after visiting the Dublin Castle at the Oak Pub across the street. It is a traditional Irish pub with wood-paneled walls and stylish mirrors, and mosaics. They have friendly bartenders, food and snacks, and of course Guinness and many other beers on tap. We had our first of many Guinness’ beers there. Visiting the many pubs in Dublin and throughout Ireland is a delightful way to hear traditional Irish music and meet the locals.

Christ Church Cathedral

Christ Church is located in the medieval city of Dublin. It is over 1,000 years old with a building beginning in 1030. Originally a Catholic Church under King James II of England. The church became protestant when King Henry VIII broke with the Catholic Church and founded the Church of England. Famous for being the burial place of Strongbow, Dermot MacMurrough, who was the King of Leinster during the twelfth century. He is most remembered as the man who invited the English into Ireland.

The Crypt is open to visiting and they offer a video presentation about the church’s history.  We stayed for Evensong prayers and songs by the choir. The Christ Church Choir was the first to sing Handel’s Messiah in 1742.

Ireland is known for its seafood and the Cliff  Townhouse Restaurant, 22 St Stephens Green, is one of the best. This easygoing restaurant has excellent service and a wide variety of Dublin classics including Galway oysters, native lobster, dressed Yawl Bay crab, wild sea trout,  and posh fish and chips.

Day two

Trinity College Book of Kells 

The book of Kells consists of 339 vellum leaves or folios with four gospels, Matthew, Mark Luke, and John plus the genealogy of Jesus Christ. The gospels are copied by hand and highly decorated in an ornamental manuscript. It has many evangelical symbols and depictions of the apostles beautifully drawn in color. The Book of Kells is believed to have been written at the Abbey of Kells by the Celts starting in 563. The Abbey was plunder and the book stolen and resold many times over the centuries until 1661 when Charles II presented to Trinity college where is remains.

When you visit the Book of Kells in the Old Library at Trinity college be sure to see the Long Room which is 65 meters in length. It is encircled at the top with a band of gold lettering commemorating the benefactors of the library from the 17th and 18th centuries.

The Old Library holds 200,000 books and important artifacts such as the 1916 Proclamation of the Irish Republic, which was read outside the General Post Office on 24 April 1916 by Patrick Pearse at the start of the Easter Rising.  And a harp that is probably the oldest of its kind in Ireland dates from the 15th century. It is made of oak and willow with 29 brass strings. It is the model for the emblem of Ireland..  The dark wood paneling and tall book stacks of the Old Library  make you feel that you have stepped back in time on maybe into a Harry Potter Movie

Jeanie Johnston Tall Ship

The Jeanie Johnston is docked at  Dublin Custom House Quay along the Liffey River.

On the ship, you will experience what millions of people who immigrated to the New World did as they fled across the Atlantic from the Famine between 1845-55. As the famine gripped Ireland, Jeannie Johnston made 16 successful crossings of the Atlantic Ocean, taking 2,500 emigrants from Ireland to North America and bringing back timber bound for Europe. The ship is an authentic replica of the original.

Day Two

The James Joyce Centre

The James Joyce Centre 35 North Great George’s Street Dublin, Ireland 
Joyce’s major works include Dubliners, published in 1914, The Dead 1916, and  Ulysses (1922). The library is a tribute to his works and the times he wrote them. It includes many wonderful quotes from his books and letters.

“He tried to weigh his soul to see if it was a poet’s soul.” (Dubliners)”[A writer is] a priest of eternal imagination, transmuting the daily bread of experience into the radiant body of everliving life.” (Selected Letters of James Joyce)”Why is it that words like these seem dull and cold? Is it because there is no word tender enough to be your name?” (The Dead)”When I die, Dublin will be written on my heart.” (Selected Letters of James Joyce)

The Guinness Storehouse

Learn to pour the perfect pint.

 

Since 1759 the Guinness Brewery in Dublin has been brewing pints. The Guinness Storehouse was once the fermentation plant of the brewery. Now the seven-story building is a visitor experience dedicated to the history of making Guinness beer.

We visited the Tasting rooms, which helped us helped appreciate the distinctive taste from the very first sip. then we learned how to pour the perfect pint in the Guinness Academy. 

The advertising exhibit is fun and humorous.  We especially enjoyed the beer and food on level five. Be sure to head up to the Gravity Bar,  the ‘Head of the Pint”, where you can see panoramic views of Dublin city –  the views are better with a complimentary pint in hand. 

Day three

Phoenix Park Dublin

https://youtu.be/drEPXvEKde8

The Phoenix Park, the largest urban park in Europe, is the location of the official residence of the President of Ireland, Áras an Uachtaráin, and the residency of the US Ambassador. it is home to a large herd of deer which have lived there since the 17th century often hunted for sport by the nobility.

The park is open year-round. The Dublin Zoo is also located at Phoenix Park. the zoo is the home of the lion you see at the start of MGM movies. The zoo has over 400 species of wild animals featuring elephants, penguins, African savannah animals and wolves.  

The Meer cat’s section was one of our favorite parts of the zoo.  Another was at the Kaziranga Forest Trail where you might be able to catch a glimpse of a group of Asian elephants including elephant bull Upali, the matriarch Bernhardine, her sister Yasmin, their daughters Asha and Anak, and the calves Kavi, Ashoka, and Samiya.

Old Jameson Distillery

https://youtu.be/-SMbkucU6E4

We visited the  Bow Street  Jameson Distillery in Dublin during the 40-minute tour we learned a lot about whiskey including an appreciation of whiskey production (and consumption).  I finally know the difference differences between Scotch, American and Irish whiskeys. 

Day 4

St. Patrick’s Cathedral
The Nation Cathedral and Collegiate Church have stood on this site since the 5th Century.  This church was originally built by the Normans in 1191 and then rebuilt in the 13th Century to be what is seen here today. St. Patrick’s has added much to Irish life. Jonathan Swift was the dean here from 1713-45. He arranged the first performance of the Handel’s Messiah here in 1742, sung by the St. Patricks and Christ Church Choirs.

The cathedral features beautiful stained glass windows, sculptures, artifacts, and a colorful tile floor. There is a display from silversmith Richard Willaims from 1779. The many memorials include one to Turlough Carolan, harper last of the Irish Bards, and Rt. Hon. John Philpot.

Pedestrian Bridge on the Liffey

“Liffey Bridge ” is the most famous pedestrian bridge, it was once known as “Wellington Bridge”, but more commonly is called the Ha’penny bridge. They used to charge a half a penny for pedestrians, it is free these days). Follow the small lane just opposite the Ha’penny into the Temple Bar District.  Or turn right and walk to the new Millennium Bridge and re-cross the river.it’s an easy 10-15 walk to shopping and the City Center from here.

Dublin’s Temple Bar District

Temple Bar is Dublin’s entertainment, art, and culinary district. it is one of the best places to hear live Irish folk music.  Definitely the place for ceol agus craic – time to have fun.

Art Galleries include home to art galleries and creative destinations such as the Irish Film Institute, the Project Arts Centre, the National Photographic Archive, and DESIGNyard.

Nightlife in Dublin

It was very crowded the evening we visited, there were large numbers of loud groups and serious partiers The prices were higher than in other parts of Dublin. It is wise to be aware of pickpockets in the area and it can be hard to find a taxi late at night, so plan ahead.

Irish Pubs:

Auld Dubliner: One of the relatively quieter pubs in Temple Bar, which hosts traditional music sessions upstairs.

Oliver St. John Gogarty: A pub popular with a young crowd because it also hosts a hostel upstairs. 
Porterhouse: It is part of a chain but serves its own house beers has a  classic Irish menu,  and live music seven days a week.

Quays Bar:  Live music that starts at 3 pm every day. food is from traditional Irish fare to an international cousin.

Temple Bar Pub: One of the oldest pubs it dates back to 1840. It has one of the largest whiskey collections in Ireland, fresh oyster platers, and live music daily.

https://youtu.be/KBfqD7wt_7U

Onward and upward, next, we head north towards Belfast. Our friend and traveling companion was originally from England and a pro at driving on the left side of the road. We rented a car and started our self-driving tour, first stop along the way was Seafood Capital of Ireland: Howth

Things to do in Ireland – Our self-drive tour of Ireland:

Malahide Castle a treasure of Ireland

Belfast Historic Neighborhoods and the Titanic Museum

Experience the Northern Coastline of Ireland

Bushmill Whiskey Distillery Tour

Wild Atlantic Way – Donegal

Westport, Ireland

Malahide Castle Near Dublin

On day 5 of our driving tour of Ireland,  we headed north from Dublin to Belfast. We stopped at Malahide Castle which was home to the Talbot family for 800 years. It is an imposing structure with castle towers and abundant lush gardens and woodlands.

You could have a delightful day outing from Dublin at the castle and gardens or just stay for a few hours as we did. There is a visitor’s center where you purchase tickets; it has exhibits, shops, and a café. It is famous for the Avoca Store where they have made world-famous throws since 1723.

Malahide Castle Gardens

Malahide Castle Gardens

The castle is situated on 268 acres of woods and botanical gardens. The garden is large and very interesting with hundreds of different plants many from as far away as Australia and Chili brought there by the Talbot family members.

The garden is divided into two sections the main shrubbery called the West Lawn, and the Walled Garden.  The Walled Garden has seven glasshouses to accommodate the more tender species of plants. Be sure to see the peaches’ greenhouse and a beautiful Victorian glasshouse.

The grounds provide a perfect place for a picnic lunch and there is plenty of room for the kids to run off some energy.

More Information: https://www.malahidecastleandgardens.ie

Malahide Castle Tour

Castle tours are given regularly and they begin in the downstairs of the oldest part of the castle.  The walls are lined with exhibits describing the history of Malahide Castle and the Talbot family members.  The Castle played an important part in Ireland’s defense against the English invasion.

The first stop on the tour is the Oak Room in the main section of the castle dating back to the 1500s. The oak panels are carved with designs and medieval life scenes.  The tour also includes the small drawing-room, large drawing room decorated in Georgian style, a great hall with a resident ghost, library and 3 bedrooms.

The bedrooms include the main bedroom, a children’s room, and a lady’s’ bedroom. There is an elevator for handicap access. On the outside, you can see the bell tower and a large front lawn.

There are Abbey ruins of a pre-Norman church called St. Fenivus.  The Abbey ruins were erected by the Talbots. Also on the grounds are abundant woodland trails where you will find many wildflowers, trees, and shrubs.

The Avoca Store offers world-famous woven throws, see www.avoca.ie.

Video of Malahide Castle and Gardens

The next stop is Howth, Ireland for lunch then onto Belfast.

See more Castles in Ireland, Buy a Pass and visit all the Shannon Heritage sites including:

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park –  a 15^thcentury castle, 19^thcentury Bunratty Folk Park and Village Street.  – County Clare, Ireland

Cliffs of Moher Center – Spectacular cliff scenery and views for the Atlantic Ocean.  – County Clare, Ireland

Saint John’s Castle -A 13^thCentury Castel featuring an imaginative exhibit and interpretation show. Excavated early Norman Houses, battlement, walks and more. -King’s Island, Limerick City, Ireland

Craggunowen – Reconstruction of a Bronze Age site with pre-historic dwellings, early Christian Ring Fort. Iron Age roadway and a replica of the Brendan Boat, a 6^thcentury vessel. Plus a restored 16^thcentury tower house. – Quin, County Clare, Ireland

Dunguaire Castle – A 16^thCentury historic exhibition, on the shores of Galway Bay. Medieval banquets nightly throughout the summer. – Kinvara, County Galway, Ireland

Knappogue Castle and Walled Garden – A 15^thcentury castle and beautifully restored gardens. Medieval banquets nightly in the summer. – Quin County Clare, Ireland

Newbridge House and Farm – Situated in North County Dublin, a fine Georgian house on 360 acres of parkland. – Hearse Road, Donabate, County Dublin, Ireland

Ardgillan Castle and Demesne – It is one of Ireland’s hidden gems set in spectacular parklands where you can view the Irish Sea.  The castle is a large 18^thcentury country style house with castellated embellishments. It includes a rose and walled garden. – Balbriggan, County Dublin, Ireland

Skerries Mills –It is a unique collection of windmills and watermill with millpond, millraces, and wetlands.  Also, there is an industrial heritage museum showcasing wind and water energy.  – Skerries, Fingal, County Dublin